Who are the passengers aboard China's busiest high-speed rail?

The work vibe is so intense that casual travelers who "accidentally" board this train are in for a shock.

Happy weekend! I recently broke my left foot and can't move around much. It's been raining a bit more often these days in Beijing. Currently, it's somewhat of a slow season for the media industry in China, so I suspect many are enjoying their vacations, particularly those with children. It's a chance to spend quality time with their families and shed some "班味儿" (bán wèi er), a term that's catching on in Chinese social media.

"班味儿" (bán wèi er), which literally translating to "smell of work”, means "work aura" or "work stench." It comes from a phrase called "once you've been to work, your temperament will change" on trending search, which refers to a common state of contemporary working people's lives: no make-up, no spirit, and tired eyes. Some netizens laugh at oneself, even if you go to work to dress up more exquisite, but also can not block the feeling of fatigue emanating from the body.

In today's piece, we translated an article originally titled "京沪高铁，全世界班味儿最浓的地方 Beijing-Shanghai high-speed railway: Permeated with 'work stench'" published on August 3 by the WeChat blog "Renwu" (People). This article delves into the lives of commuters on this busy line, where the "smell of work" is unmistakably strong.

On what is likely the busiest high-speed rail in China, you get a peek into the lives of those shuttling between the nation's two largest cities, transforming the train into a mobile office complete with Wi-Fi, power outlets, and a non-stop flow of work. The contrast between the daily workers and leisure travelers on this route is stark. Beijing and Shanghai, being top tourist and business trip destinations, draw a vivid picture of humor and a touch of sadness, allowing one to truly feel the energy and determination of the people moving between these two cities.

To ensure readability, we have condensed the original text, which was quite lengthy, without compromising the essential content.

---

Beijing-Shanghai high-speed railway: Permeated with "work stench"

The Beijing-Shanghai High-Speed Railway is now packed with the working crowd. Hop on the G2 train at 7:00 AM sharp, and you will spot what appear to be bosses and employees sitting side by side, engaged in one-on-one guidance on PowerPoint slides. Colleagues line up with their laptops, collaboratively fine-tuning details. A woman, juggling a tablet in one hand and a laptop in the other, darts her eyes between the two screens. A laid-back guy with dreadlocks is caught up in a flood of work messages. Even an elderly man with thinning gray hair types away, editing the document on his screen.

The work vibe is so intense that casual travelers who "accidentally" board this train are in for a shock. A college student who bought a first-class ticket settled in comfortably with some lemon chicken feet and fruit, put on headphones, opened his iPad, and queued up an action-packed anime. But as soon as the train started, the rapid clattering of keyboards and the sounds of meetings in English and Japanese filled the air. Feeling out of place, the student ended up watching online lectures for the entire trip.

The pinnacle of the "work stench"

The moment Zhang Zihan boarded the Beijing-Shanghai High-Speed Railway G28 train, he sensed something was off.

It was summer vacation, so he expected to see parents with kids, tour guides waving flags, and elderly travelers in custom hats. But on this train, all he saw were business suits, briefcases, and laptops, the blue glow of screens illuminating every tired face.

Bosses and employees sat side by side, working one-on-one on PowerPoint presentations. Colleagues lined up with their laptops, fine-tuning details together. A woman balanced a tablet in one hand and a laptop in the other, her eyes darting between the screens. A laid-back guy with dreadlocks was buried in work messages. Even an elderly man with thinning gray hair was diligently typing away, editing documents. Zhang couldn't help but think, "Do people work this hard even at that age?"

Next to him, a middle-aged man in a suit and tightly knotted tie was on a Bluetooth call with a client. He nodded repeatedly at his laptop, constantly saying, "Yes, yes," "Okay," and "Got it, understood."

Once the train took off, there were no noisy children, only the rapid clatter of keyboards, the sound of conference calls, and notifications from office software. After an hour, Zhang could tell who around him was using ByteDance's Feishu or Alibaba's DingTalk, who had the upper hand in negotiations, and who was just following orders.

A while later, the train attendant came by with a cart, but instead of calling out "Snacks, drinks, mineral water," she offered "Coffee, anyone?" At that moment, Zhang thought to himself, "Isn't the 'smell of work' on this train way too strong?"

Feeling deeply moved, Zhang posted online, saying, "The 'smell of work' on the Beijing-Shanghai High-Speed Railway is stronger than in an office," which got 36,000 likes from fellow workers.

Everywhere on the Beijing-Shanghai High-Speed Railway, there were open laptops and people deeply engrossed in their work.

The Beijing-Shanghai High-Speed Railway has become the daily commute for workers shuttling between the two cities. This 1,318-kilometer line originally operated at 350 km/h, taking 5-6 hours from Shanghai Hongqiao Station to Beijing South Station. Nowadays, some trains make the trip even faster.

The G2 train, departing from Shanghai at 7:00 AM sharp, only makes three stops, spending an average of 2 minutes at each, before racing northward. In just 4 hours and 36 minutes, you are in another city, another climate. Netizens joke, "In the morning, you are the boss; by the afternoon, you are the subordinate. The Beijing-Shanghai High-Speed Railway lets you get scolded for morning mistakes by the afternoon."

Even faster is the legendary G28. Departing at 7:00 PM, it completes the journey in 4 hours and 18 minutes, arriving in Beijing at 11:18 PM, with only a 2-minute stop at Nanjing South Station. This return trip is a favorite among Beijing workers on business trips to Shanghai, allowing them to catch the last subway home and seamlessly transition into the next day's work.

Zhang Zihan's post about the high-speed railway gathered stories of many "working adventures" on the line.

Eva, who works for a sports brand and used to be in an advertising company, shared her experience. On a business trip to Beijing, her small train table was crammed with a McDonald's bag, a laptop, and a mouse. Her elbows bumped into her seatmate's while eating or typing, but they both smiled, fully understanding the cramped conditions of working life.

As a contractor, Eva often noticed others in similar positions. She overheard someone pitching online, using phrases like "Our advantage is that," "We must participate," "This time, we want to convey," and "We chose this path"—all familiar marketing jargon.

Even elderly passengers with white hair were diligently typing away.

Hu Yonggang, born in the '80s, takes the Beijing-Shanghai High-Speed Railway about every two weeks. He observed that passengers on this line are not only different in professions but also in temperament. On other lines, it's not uncommon to encounter screaming children, noisy tour groups, and even arguments or scuffles. But business travelers seem to have a higher tolerance, barely reacting even when someone makes a phone call on the train. Hu himself is like this; not only does he not complain, but he also eavesdrops and might even strike up a conversation about business opportunities.

Businesspeople never miss a chance to network, especially on the Beijing-Shanghai High-Speed Railway, which is packed with top-tier workers. No wonder some netizens suggest, "Handing out resumes on the Beijing-Shanghai High-Speed Railway is the real way to get hired by a boss."

The intense work atmosphere often shocks non-business travelers who "accidentally" board this train. One college student, who had bought a first-class ticket, settled in comfortably with lemon chicken feet and fruit, put on headphones, opened an iPad, and started watching an action-packed anime. But as soon as the train started, the clatter of keyboards and the sounds of meetings in English and Japanese erupted around him. Nervously, the student ended up watching online lectures for the entire trip.

A few days ago, Lin Song, a young university admin teacher, boarded the Beijing-Shanghai High-Speed Railway with over 20 students. They were heading to a university in Beijing for a visit, more like a field trip than a business trip. He planned to take a nap during the ride, thinking the time would pass quickly. But his carriage was packed with workers – someone in front of him was on a work call, and a few medical professionals behind him were discussing surgery plans and responsibilities, creating a tense atmosphere.

Feeling restless, Lin Song had no choice but to pull out his laptop. With no actual work to do, he pretended to be busy by chatting with his students on WeChat.

Why the Beijing-Shanghai high-speed railway?

By the end of 2023, China's high-speed rail network spanned 45,000 kilometers, enough to circle the globe, covering all 31 provinces, municipalities, and autonomous regions, as well as many small and medium-sized cities.

There are plenty of high-speed rail lines between major cities, such as the Beijing-Shenzhen High-Speed Railway from Beijing West Station to Shenzhen North Station and the Shanghai-Hangzhou High-Speed Railway, each daily transporting workers from various fields.

However, the most notable feature of the Beijing-Shanghai High-Speed Railway is its frequency. There are over 40 daily round-trip trains between Beijing and Shanghai, compared to only 7 between Beijing and Shenzhen and about 13 between Shanghai and Shenzhen.

This high frequency reflects the tight interconnection and constant exchanges between the two cities.

According to the 2023 Fortune Global 500 list, China has 142 companies on the list, with 53 based in Beijing and 12 in Shanghai, making them the top two cities for listed companies. They also rank as the top two cities in China by GDP. For companies, location is part of their image, and Beijing and Shanghai are prime choices. Tesla and Nvidia have offices in Shanghai, with Jensen Huang even attending an annual meeting there, while Coca-Cola, Nestlé, and Procter & Gamble have chosen Beijing.

The high economic development of the two cities goes hand in hand with the influx of workers, making them the cities with highest talent density. Lily, who works for a central enterprise headquartered in Beijing, but its core business is in Shanghai. She frequently travels to Beijing to report to senior management, attend strategic planning meetings, and participate in major corporate events or annual meetings.

Geographically, both cities also hold strategic importance. For the consumer goods industry, the regions centered around Beijing (North China) and Shanghai (East China) are the most important, with sales networks radiating from these hubs to other regions.

Eva, who works for a sports brand headquartered in Beijing with a branch in Shanghai, shared that Shanghai, being a hub for consumers and influencers, attracts China's most fashionable and trend-savvy young people. Having an office in Shanghai keeps the brand close to its users and makes it easier to hold offline events. On the other hand, trips to Beijing are mainly for meetings and reports.

In the post-pandemic era, many internet companies have adopted decentralized office models. Since its inception, ByteDance has never officially announced a headquarters, having offices in both Beijing and Shanghai.

Zhang Zihan, who has worked as an HR in a major internet company for many years, found that as companies expand their core businesses and secure a user base and cash flow, they tend to diversify their operations. Alibaba, which started with e-commerce, now spans real estate, offline retail, entertainment, and cloud computing. ByteDance, dubbed the "Universe Factory," not only sells ads but also delved into e-commerce, gaming, real estate, and beyond.

As businesses grow more complex and extend from online to offline, the need for more talent and longer supply industrial chains increases, making people to move across different cities and regions inevitable. Given Shanghai's developed foreign trade, efficient logistics, and close proximity to consumers, ByteDance has stationed some of its e-commerce teams there. The essence of economics is flow, and the frequent economic exchanges between Shanghai and Beijing drive the movement of workers.

In recent years, as companies have focused on cost reduction and efficiency, with frequent organizational adjustments, Zhang's business trips have increased. He often travels to Beijing for biannual bonus planning, interviews with key candidates, discussions with mid-to-senior managers on transfers and promotions, and employee performance evaluations.

High-speed rail has become the most cost-effective option for these trips.

Compared to flying, high-speed rail offers advantage of uninterrupted Wi-Fi and 4G signals, allowing workers to pull out their laptops and make calls anytime. The seats are relatively spacious, with power outlets in between, making work more comfortable. Eva mentioned she always opts for the high-speed train whenever possible, buying a plane ticket as a backup. Hu Yonggang always brings a compact power strip on his trips, which fits perfectly with the high-speed train setup. It's handy for him and can also be borrowed by other business travelers nearby.

High-speed trains are also more punctual, departing exactly on time and arriving as scheduled. With climate change causing more extreme weather, the chances of flight delays have risen. For example, on July 28, about 100 flights were delayed at Shenzhen Bao'an Airport due to weather, with one flight to Xiangyang being delayed by over 390 minutes.

Time is as valuable for workers as a company's budget, so making the most of every trip is crucial. Hu Yonggang details his recent itinerary: arriving at Hongqiao High-Speed Railway Station at 6:00 AM, meeting with several clients in Zhengzhou by noon, flying to Guangzhou in the evening for an overnight stay, meeting more clients the next day, then returning to Shanghai that night, all while maintaining his regular work schedule. He said, "I have been in this kind of schedule for almost two weeks."

He particularly dislikes delays, which make his schedule unpredictable. Once, due to a two-hour flight delay, he had to forgo rest and meals to avoid being late for a client meeting, illustrating the constant tug-of-war between work and rest.

Taking the Beijing-Shanghai High-Speed Railway offers another benefit—cost savings. At around 600 yuan (about 84 U.S. dollars), it can be half the price of a plane ticket. With companies reducing costs and travel expenses, every bit saved counts. The Beijing-Shanghai high-speed train even offers a monthly pass—90 days with 20 second-class tickets for a total of 11,240 yuan (about 1,568 U.S. dollars), averaging just 562 yuan (about 78 U.S. dollars) per trip.

Though flights might be reasonably priced during off-peak times, the high-speed train's advantages make it Hu Yonggang's preferred choice. He repeatedly emphasized that for most business travelers between Beijing and Shanghai, "it really is the best choice."

Self-mockery among workers

The way workers have turned high-speed rail into a commuter train is somewhat absurd. The Wi-Fi, signals, and charging outlets on the trains were meant to let people stay connected, contact family, and entertain themselves during their journeys. Today, however, they have become "ropes" tying people to their work.

As the trains get faster, the pressure to keep up with work intensifies. Every time Eva makes a same-day round trip between Beijing and Shanghai, she finds it almost surreal. The day stretches infinitely, feeling like two days have passed, and by the time she returns home at night, it's like she has woken up from an exhausting dream.

Now that the trip takes just 4 hours, she feels even more pressure. "No one thought it was possible to attend a meeting in Beijing and return the same day. Now that it's physically feasible, no one considers whether people can handle it." She has been summoned to Beijing for flimsy reasons, like a meeting that could have been held online. "Sometimes you wonder, why do I have to come all this way?"

Eva used to try to catch up with friends in Beijing when she was there for work, but now her schedule is so packed there's no room to spare. Even if she has free time in the evening, she's too exhausted to do anything but rest. This year, she has been to Beijing a dozen times without seeing her friends even once. "I used to mention my trips to friends, but now I don't even bother."

People are working longer hours than ever. Over the past decade, the thriving internet industry has introduced new work rhythms, reshaping a generation's biological clocks. The 996 and 007 work schedules became the norm for many in tech industry, and some companies still use "big and small weeks" model. As making money has become harder, the work culture driven by internet companies has started influencing other industries, making overtime and overwork more common. According to the National Bureau of Statistics, the average weekly working hours of employees across the country have been increasing since 2015, reaching 46.5 hours in 2019, and rising to 49 hours by 2023, the highest in nearly 20 years.

The Busy Workers on the Beijing-Shanghai High-Speed Train

Since the post titled "The 'smell of work' on the Beijing-Shanghai High-Speed Railway is too strong" was published last August, Zhang Zihan notices the red unread notification in his message bar every few months. He knows the collective emotions of workers are flaring up again. Upon closer inspection, there is a pattern: one peak was at the beginning of the year after returning to work, another was recently during the weary mid-year. He anticipates the next spike to be around the end of the year.

As the next trip approaches, Hu Yonggang grumbles about work fatigue while packing disposable socks and underwear into his backpack. He got these travel essentials recommended by a colleague. He also brings a compact power strip, perfect for high-speed rail, allowing him to charge his laptop, phone, and Bluetooth earphones simultaneously. Seeing the charging indicators on both screens, he thinks, "It's not just charging my devices; it's charging myself."

---